Puerto Deseado Travel Guide: A Destination for Wildlife Lovers

Last Updated on 2 days by Victoria

Puerto Deseado is a hidden gem, largely unknown outside of Argentina, but its remoteness hides a treasure trove of wildlife encounters.

We actually didn’t know anything about Puerto Deseado until we started planning our visit to Cueva de las Manos. Since the nearest airport is in Comodoro Rivadavia, we started exploring destinations along Patagonia’s Atlantic coast—and that’s how we stumbled upon this incredible place.

When people think of Patagonia, they usually think of the snowy peaks of the Andes, hiking in El Chalten, and seeing giant glaciers. But Patagonia is also technicolor rock formations, miles and miles of wild open country, and an abundance of wildlife–pumas, choiques (small ostrich-like birds), whales, and penguins.

I have a mild obsession with penguins, so when I found out that Puerto Deseado is the only place to see Rockhopper Penguins in Argentina… well, that sealed the deal.

We had an amazing time in this small coastal town, so I put together this guide with everything we learned—what to do, when to go, and where to eat and stay. I hope it helps you plan your own adventure to this unforgettable spot!

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Table Of Contents

Getting there
What to do in Puerto Deseado
Where to stay
Where to eat
When to go
Final Thoughts
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Southern Rockhopper Penguins hanging out on Isla Pinguino, near Puerto Deseado

Getting there

Puerto Deseado, a town in the province of Santa Cruz, is an off-the beaten-path destination at least in part because it does not have an airport. The nearest airport is in Comodoro Rivadavia, 4 hours away by car.

To get there you need to drive on Ruta Nacional 3 along the coast for 168 km (105 miles), and then another 125 km (78 miles) on RN 281. This drive can feel long, as the terrain is flat and there are lots of guanacos (similar to llamas) and choiques crossing the road.

I highly recommend doing this drive during the day. Driving at night requires you to be extra alert and there are no street lights to help along the way.

TIP: Lots of locals warned us about guanacos in the area. They said (and we discovered) that they are unpredictable and may quickly dash across the road. The recommendation is to avoid flashing your lights at them and honking your horn – just go slow.

What to do in Puerto Deseado

Puerto Deseado is the jumping off point for outdoor experiences and wildlife encounters, but there are also a few things to do in town. Here are the best things to do when visiting.

Visit Isla Pinguino

Going to Isla Pinguino may be THE reason to visit Puerto Deseado, although, once you’re there, there are plenty of other cool activities to do!

Isla Pinguino, as the name suggests, is an island FULL of penguins. And while penguins aren’t uncommon in the region, this island has thousands of Rockhopper Penguins (Pingüinos de Penacho Amarillo), which cannot be found anywhere else in Argentina.

These penguins are the reason I dragged Kolton all the way to Puerto Deseado and it was so worth it! They are adorable, not afraid of humans, and an absolute delight to watch.

Penguins aren’t all you’ll see on this tour, though. We also saw LOTS of sea lions, elephant seals, cormorants, and a few Commerson’s dolphins.

Parque Interjuridiccional Marino Isla Pingüino was established fairly recently in 2012. Being able to visit felt extra special since many people still haven’t heard about it.

To visit you’ll need to book a tour at one of the local tour companies. This tour is more expensive than others in town because it involves a 45 minute boat ride to the island and back.

Ideally, you would spend more than a day in Puerto Deseado to increase your odds of going to Isla Pinguino since the tour does not operate when the winds are too strong.

Sea lions and elephant seals on Isla Pinguino

Ria Deseado and Camino de la Costa

A ria (estuary) is a riverbed that has been filled with seawater. The ecology of this area is unique, making it a great place to see Commerson’s dolphins, sea lions, Magellanic penguins, and five different species of cormorants.

The best way to experience Ria Deseado is to book a tour. The tours along the Ria are short – about 2 hours long – and take you to specific places where you can see wildlife.

If you won’t be doing a tour of Ria Deseado, Camino de la Costa is a 30 km gravel road that runs along the Ria. The road is in good condition and can easily be traveled by a small sedan.

While you can walk the road, I suggest you drive, if possible. There are a few inlets along the way where you can park and walk down to the rocks and take in the scenery. It’s a peaceful place to sip some mate and have a picnic.

Campamento Darwin

At the end of the Ria Deseado, 42 km (26 miles) from Puerto Deseado, is Campamento Darwin (Darwin’s Camp), which is where Chalres Darwin camped in 1833. Campamento Darwin is an estancia and eco-lodge, where you can choose to spend the day exploring the premises or spend a few nights.

Some of the activities the camp offers are hiking, canoeing, horseback riding, and a visit to some cave paintings on the estancia. Depending on how long you’ll be there, the camp offers meals along with your visit.

Cueva de los Leones

Cueva de los Leones is a cave along the coast you can visit when the tide is low. There is a circuit you can do called Circuito de las 7 Cuevas (circuit of the seven caves) which takes you to Punta Cavendish, but the path isn’t well-marked.

We visited later in the day, and decided to just stop at Cueva de los Leones, since it is the cave that is well marked on the map and with road signage. There is a small parking area that has a sign. You’ll walk along the coastline for just a couple of minutes before you reach the cave.

The rocks are a bit slippery so make sure you have adequate footwear! Sneakers or water shoes would do it. Once you get to the cave, there is a spot to climb up into the mouth of the cave. The locals stack rocks here to make it accessible.

TIP: make sure the rocks are stable and you’ll be able to get back down BEFORE you go up.

Museo Mario Brozoski

Museo Mario Brozoski is an awesome piece of local history. The museum tells the story of a British ship – the Swift corvette – that sank off the coast of Puerto Deseado in 1770. The ship was found in the 1980s by local amateur divers, who recovered a number of well-preserved artifacts

The museum is small, but well curated. It mixes the story of the ship with the story of its discovery, and includes a number of items found on board.The museum is named after one of the divers who found the Swift, Mario Brozoski.

Museo del Tren

Museo del Tren or Museo Ferroviario is a museum to Puerto Deseado’s train station, which was inaugurated in 1909 and functioned through 1978.

The station was part of a project to connect Puerto Deseado to Bariloche. However, the rail line was only extended 278 km (174 miles) to Las Heras. Eventually the project was halted and the rail station was abandoned.

The museum preserves the station that was, along with a last remaining train car. For history buffs looking to peer back in time,this museum is a must visit.

Where to stay

Puerto Deseado is a small town, but it does have several mid-range hotel and home-share options.

Tower Rock Puerto Deseado $$ | Modern apartments with a view of the estuary. The apartments are well-equipped and comfortable, and the hosts are very warm and helpful.

El Garaje $ | A modern, one bedroom apartment close to everything Puerto Deseado has to offer. Guests highlight the incredible homemade breakfast the host makes, which is included in every stay.

Cabañas Don Fortuno $ | This simple cabin is great for families looking to have a space of their own. It is well equipped with everything you might need for an extended stay, including kitchenware and a grill.

Where to eat

Our favorite restaurant in Puerto Deseado was Bita. It is the only restaurant in town that offers an elevated dining experience with a comprehensive menu. We tried the lobster ravioli, which came with a sauce with shelled mussels and scallops – it was incredible!

We also ate at Juniors, a family-owned restaurant frequented by locals. It has a bodegon-style menu with milaneses, empanadas, pastas, salads, and grilled meat served during the evening. While it didn’t blow our socks off, it was a satisfying meal after a long day of exploring.

When to go

The best time to go to Puerto Deseado is from October to April. The weather will be warmer and you’ll be able to see the wildlife the town is known for.

Rockhopper penguins are on Isla Pinguino between October and March, so tours to see them run during this time. Commerson’s dolphins can be seen from January until May. So if you visit between January and March you’ll have the best chances of seeing both of these incredible creatures!

Final Thoughts

If you love ecotourism and exploring off the beaten path destinations, Puerto Deseado is the place for you! With unique species like Rockhopper penguins and commerson’s dolphins, this is a must-stop during your next trip to Argentina.