Buenos Aires Travel 2024: A Local’s Guide

Move over, New York—Buenos Aires is the real city that never sleeps.

I’ve seen kids playing in parks long after the sun sets, couples of all ages taking midnight strolls on weeknights, and partygoers casually leaving nightclubs at 7 a.m. 

Buenos Aires pulses with life, packed with 3 million people within the city limits and another 12 million in the metro area. There’s always something happening here.

The streets, a mix of French, colonial, art deco, and modern architecture, are alive with shops, bars, restaurants, and clubs. Here, you can watch people dance the night away at a Milonga, feel the roar of soccer stadiums shaking with excited fans, and dive into Latin American art.

With so much to do, visiting Buenos Aires for the first time can feel overwhelming, but don’t worry! This Buenos Aires travel guide will help you navigate the city like a local.

When is the best time to go?

Buenos Aires is known for its temperate climate with four distinct seasons, so there is really not a bad time to go. If I had to choose, though, fall (March-June) and spring (September-December) may be the best times to visit the city.

During these months, the weather is pleasant and the city is in full swing. If you visit in late spring, you’ll also get to see the Jacarandas bursting with lilac blooms!

Summer in Buenos Aires (December-February) can get hot and muggy, so most city dwellers escape to the coast for a week or two during those months.

For this reason, some businesses will be closed, there won’t be as many plays and concerts (those also head to the coast!), nor will there be many sporting events.

Winter can also be a good time to go, if you don’t mind a little cold. Snow is very rare and the highs can sometimes be in the 60s°F (15-20°C). Keep in mind that Argentines hibernate during the winter, so the city will be slightly quieter than usual.

How long should I stay in Buenos Aires?

Honestly, as long as you want. You’ll never run out of things to do!

But if you are looking to experience the highlights, 3 days is just enough to cover those. Staying 5-7 days would allow you to add on a day trip, go to a soccer game, and even to a play or concert.

What is the currency in Argentina?

If you’re visiting Buenos Aires you will need to get your hands on some Argentine pesos.

Unfortunately this is not as straightforward as it is in other countries. While ATMs are an option, they limit the amount of cash you can take out and will give you pesos at the official exchange rate.

To help your money go further, you should exchange US dollars (ideally crisp $100 bills) at unofficial exchange houses (casas de cambio).

The good news is, you can use Visa and Mastercard credit cards and receive favorable exchange rates. But smaller businesses may not accept credit cards.

If you’d like more info, I’ve written an in-depth explanation on money in Argentina here.

Is Buenos Aires affordable?

Buenos Aires is not as affordable as it was a few years ago, but if you are traveling from North America or Europe, you’ll find that prices are still well below what you are used to at home.

Some things like public transportation, neighborhood restaurants, and activities are pretty inexpensive. 

While others, like grocery stores, trendy restaurants, and clothing are on the pricier side.

It’s important to remember that prices in Argentina fluctuate constantly, and although inflation has slowed, it is still very much a part of everyday life. Don’t be surprised if prices change from one day to the next!

Getting around

Public transportation here is awesome! The subway is safe and efficient. Buses are plentiful and have dedicated lanes on major avenues for faster transit.

To use public transit you will need to get a SUBE card at a kiosco (small convenience store) in the city. Places that sell these have a SUBE sign outside the shop.

You can also use taxis, Uber, or the local rideshare app, Cabify.

Google maps is surprisingly accurate at providing transit routes and is the app I use the most. You can also download the local Cuando Subo app, which provides the most up-to-date information on bus routes.

You should always take normal big city precautions, like not carrying more cash than you need and generally being aware of your surroundings, but public transportation is generally very safe.

TIP: download the map for Buenos Aires for offline access.  

Read more: How to Navigate Public Transportation in Buenos Aires Like a Local

Where to stay

Buenos Aires has so many different neighborhoods, each with its own character.

But when it comes to visiting Buenos Aires for a few days, there are a few clear favorites. I’ve listed a couple of highly-rated hotels and apartments in different price ranges that will make your visit extra special.

Recoleta

Recoleta is one of Buenos Aires’ most affluent neighborhoods. It is known for its beautifully preserved Beaux-Arts and French neoclassical architecture, high-end shops and restaurants, as well as the famous Recoleta Cemetery.

Hub Porteño | Hub Porteño is a stylish boutique hotel in Recoleta, known for its spacious rooms and personalized service, making it a cozy spot for a relaxed stay in Buenos Aires

Alvear Palace | If decadent, old-timey luxury is your thing, then you have to stay at this 5-star hotel in Recoleta.

Studio Apartment | This apartment has a really nice pool, a gym, hot tub, and fully equipped kitchen. It’s also very well located and boasts amazing views of the city!

San Telmo

San Telmo is a historic neighborhood with lots of character and old Buenos Aires charm. This is where you can visit the San Telmo market to shop for antiques. It also has the advantage of being very close to other touristic points of interest like Puerto Madero, 9 de Julio avenue, and La Boca.

L’Addresse Hôtel Boutique |  This hotel blends modern style with classic charm, offering cozy rooms in a historic building. It’s a quiet, welcoming spot, perfect for soaking up the laid-back vibe of Buenos Aires’ oldest neighborhood.

San Telmo 360 | This studio apartment is located right at the edge of the neighborhood, offering easy access to downtown and Puerto Madero. The apartment building has a pool and hot tub, gym, and 24-hour front desk.

Circus Hostel | Circus Hostel in San Telmo is a fun, budget-friendly spot with a cool vibe and a mix of private rooms and dorms. It’s a great place to meet other travelers, with a pool and chill common areas, all in the heart of Buenos Aires’ historic neighborhood.

Palermo Soho & Palermo Hollywood

Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, which are adjacent to one another, are the most popular neighborhoods with international travelers –and for good reason. 

While this area is a little removed from the tourist track (but just 15-20 minutes away), it has a huge number of restaurant and bar offerings, many of which are popular with locals also. 

Jardin Escondido | Jardín Escondido is a laid-back, charming boutique hotel tucked away in Palermo. With its lush garden, cozy vibe, and a prime spot near the neighborhood’s best bars and restaurants, it feels like a hidden retreat in the city.

Magnolia Hotel Boutique | Magnolia Hotel Boutique in Palermo is a cozy, stylish spot with a homey feel and lovely decor. It’s great for travelers looking to relax while being close to all the cool cafes and shops in the vibrant neighborhood.

Casa Caravan | Casa Caravan in Palermo offers a cool, relaxed vibe with stylish rooms and a social atmosphere, perfect for meeting fellow travelers. It has private and shared rooms and is an ideal base for exploring the city.

Belgrano & Colegiales

Belgrano and Colegiales are quieter residential neighborhoods, which still have plenty of restaurants and shops to visit and easy access to public transit.  

There aren’t many hotels in this area, but there are plenty of short term apartment rentals. If you are staying in Buenos Aires for a longer period of time, this is a great area to call home.

Departamento Ciudad de la Paz | This apartment gets top marks for its location within Belgrano and the level of service the host provides. Reviewers also appreciate how comfortable, modern, and well-equipped the space is.

Apartment in Torre Hernandez |  This apartment building has two pools, a super well-equipped gym, and private parking. The unit itself is modern, and has AC, Wifi, and a balcony.

Metropolitan Highline Apartments | This studio apartment in Colegiales has a shared garden and pool, as well as a small gym. Reviewers loved the balcony, the 24-hour building security, and the location.

TIP: Booking and Airbnb are both great resources for finding apartments in Buenos Aires. When planning a trip during the summer months, make sure there is an AC unit in the bedroom!

Puerto Madero

Puerto Madero is the most modern area of Buenos Aires. Right on the river, the skyline here is doted with glass skyscrapers.

The restaurants here are geared toward office workers and weekend crowds, but its close proximity to Calle Florida and San Telmo is definitely a plus. 

While this is not my top choice for neighborhoods to stay in, travelers looking for modern, high-end accommodations will find plenty of options here.

Faena Hotel | Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero is all about luxury and bold design, mixing sleek style with a touch of glamour. With its trendy bars, pool scene, and waterfront location, it’s the go-to spot for those wanting to splurge in Buenos Aires.

SLS Buenos Aires | SLS Buenos Aires in Puerto Madero is a chic, modern hotel with sleek rooms and a rooftop pool that’s perfect for taking in city views. It’s got a trendy vibe, great for travelers looking to stay in the city’s modern waterfront district.

Trendy Apartment in Puerto Madero | This apartment gets amazing reviews. Guests rave about the amenities, location, and host service.

What to eat

Argentine food is known for its high quality cuts of beef, fresh vegetables, and dishes adopted from its Spanish and Italian heritage: including pasta, chorizo, and gelato. 

Because of Buenos Aires’ size, there’s no shortage of incredible restaurants in all price ranges. In recent years, the city has also seen more and more restaurants that serve objectively good food from other cuisines. In short, food in Buenos Aires is amazing! 

Here are just a few must-try Argentine foods and drinks:

• Empanadas: empanadas are like turnovers with savory fillings, common throughout Latin America. In Argentina, the most popular fillings are beef, chicken, vegetable, ham and cheese, and they can be fried or oven baked. 
• Asado (barbeque): an asado is Argentine-style barbeque, where you grill a variety of meats over a grate that you lower and raise to adjust the proximity to the coals. The high quality of the meat available in Argentina makes this an especially enjoyable experience. Some of the most popular cuts include bife de chorizo, lomo, tira de asado, chicken, and matambrito de cerdo.
• Chimichurri: more of a condiment than a food, chimichurri is usually served with empanadas or asado. There are different versions, but it’s usually a mixture of parsley, oregano, garlic, and oil.
• Choripan: Choripan is chorizo sliced in half and placed inside bread to be eaten like a sandwich. Sometimes this will be served as a starter during an asado, but you’ll see it most often in food stands and carts on the street.
• Facturas (pastries): pastries in Buenos Aires are not to be missed. Some favorites include medialunas de grasa (savory) or de manteca (sweet butter croissants), vigilantes, and anything filled with dulce de leche (a type of caramel).
• Gelato: I think this surprised most people before they go, but the ice cream in Buenos is AMAZING. I’m serious, you have to have some during your visit. I think it may be better than Italy’s (I said it!). Popular flavors include dulce de leche, chocolate granizado (chocolate with chocolate shavings), maracuya (passion fruit), and tramontana.
• Alfajores: these are palm-sized cookies, usually filled with dulce de leche and coated with chocolate. They are an argentine staple, but many people find them a bit too rich. There’s only one way to know for sure…
• Mate: Mate is a hot tea that you’ll see people drinking throughout the city. Mate leaves are placed in a gourd or cup, hot water is poured over it, and a straw with a filter attachment (bombilla). It’s quite bitter and high in caffeine, so it usually takes some getting used to.
• Malbec: you can’t leave without having Argentina’s national wine. Order some at just about any restaurant or pick up a boutique bottle at one of the city’s many wine shops. Full bodied, and rich, it goes great with grilled beef.

I could go on and on about the foods I love. If you have the time, I would also stop by a an Italian restaurant while you’re there – I promise you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how good the pasta is!

TIP: tipping is customary, but varies person to person. 10% is considered an acceptable amount to leave your server.

What to do

One of the best ways you can spend your time in Buenos Aires is to simply wander its streets, take in the architecture, stop for a coffee and lunch, and hang out at a park. That said, there are some “must dos” on the tourist track that I highly recommend.

Start by exploring the historic neighborhoods of San Telmo and La Boca. In San Telmo, cobblestone streets are lined with antique shops and tango dancers performing in public squares, while La Boca stands out with its colorful buildings, history, and soccer culture at La Bombonera stadium. 

You also can’t miss Recoleta, home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery where icons like Eva Perón are buried, as well as upscale boutiques and art galleries. 

Not far from Recoleta you’ll also find the city’s cultural hub. The Teatro Colón offers world-class opera and ballet performances, while the MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires) provides a deep dive into the continent’s modern art. 

To experience the city’s nightlife, head to Palermo Soho for its trendy bars and restaurants. Be sure to try local dishes such as empanadas, asado (barbeque), and, of course, Argentina’s world-famous Malbec wines. 

Nature lovers will enjoy biking through la Reserva Ecologica (ecological reserve) on the shores of the Rio de la Plata and a stroll through the vast Bosques de Palermo parks. Wrap up your visit with a tango show or even a lesson, as Buenos Aires is the birthplace of this dance.

There are truly too many fun things to do to list them all!

Read more: Best Things to Do in Buenos Aires

Day trips from Buenos Aires

Are you curious to see what else lies just within reach of the city? Here are some options for days trips.

El Tigre Delta: Just an hour away by train, Tigre is a picturesque town located in the Paraná River Delta. Visitors can take boat tours through its network of rivers and canals. The town itself offers markets, museums like the Museo de Arte Tigre, and a peaceful escape from the city’s bustle.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay: A quick ferry ride across the Río de la Plata takes you to this UNESCO World Heritage town. Colonia’s cobblestone streets, historic colonial architecture, and waterfront views are perfect for a leisurely day of exploring. Don’t forget to visit the iconic lighthouse for panoramic views of the town.

San Antonio de Areco: This small, traditional town located about two hours from Buenos Aires is the heart of Argentina’s gaucho (cowboy) culture. Visitors can tour local estancias (ranches), watch horseback riding demonstrations, and enjoy a traditional Argentine asado (barbecue). It’s a great place to learn about rural life and Argentine traditions.

Is Buenos Aires Safe?

Yes, Buenos Aires is safe! I would recommend the city to anyone, including solo female travelers and families with kids.

That being said, Buenos Aires is a big city. Like most big cities you need to be aware of your surroundings, avoid carrying too many valuables and being careless with your phone.

If you want to be extra cautious, avoid public transit at night and stick to well-lit streets in the city’s most touristy neighborhoods (all the neighborhoods mentioned above are very safe!)

Follow these general guidelines and you’ll have nothing but an amazing time!

Tips for traveling to Buenos Aires

• Small businesses prefer cash and will often offer discounts (sometimes as high as 20%!) for cash payments.
• Argentines have dinner late, typically at 9 pm or later. Be prepared!
• Because of said late dinner, having a merienda, an afternoon snack or tea, is a must. Most people have this between 4 and 6 pm.
• In Argentina and Latin America in general personal space is, well, not so personal. Don’t take offense if someone stands very close to you or touches you for no apparent reason.
• The city is generally safe, but keep your cash and phone close to you at all times. Never leave your phone on an outdoor restaurant table!
• Check if your cell service provider offers international data with your plan. If not, consider an eSIM.
• Central AC and heat are not that common, so don’t expect restaurants and shops to be extra climate-controlled. Most places do have stand-alone units these days, though.

Final Thoughts

Buenos Aires is my favorite city in the world. I hope this travel guide will help you enjoy it as much as I do!

If you have any questions, or would like to know more about a specific topic, let me know in the comments!

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How to Navigate Public Transportation in Buenos Aires Like a Local

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